Baekheungam Hermitage – 백흥암 (Yeongcheon, Gyeongsangbuk-do)

The entry to Baekheungam Hermitage near Eunhaesa Temple in Yeongcheon, Gyeongsangbuk-do.

Hello Again Everyone!!

Like Unbuam Hermitage, Baekheungam Hermitage is a hermitage directly associated with the neighbouring Eunhaesa Temple in Yeongcheon, Gyeongsangbuk-do. And like almost all hermitages associated with Eunhaesa Temple, Baekheungam Hermitage is situated to the west of the main temple.

Baekheungam Hermitage was first established in the mid Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). Originally, the hermitage directly belonged to Eunhaesa Temple. The shrine, which was to become Baekheungam Hermitage, was first constructed in 1546 to commemorate the spirit of King Injong (r. 1544-45). It was later in 1643 that the main hall, the Geukrak-jeon Hall, was constructed.

You first approach the temple up a long road. To the right, you’ll finally arrive at the hermitage and be greeted by a large Boje-ru Pavilion (much like the one at Unbuam Hermitage). Unlike Unbuam Hermitage, you can’t walk up the stairs at the centre of the pavilion to gain entrance to the hermitage courtyard. Instead, you’ll need to walk to the right through an entry that opens between the nuns’ living quarters and the right exterior wall of the Boje-ru Pavilion. Baekheungam Hermitage is very similar in its architectural layout as Unbuam Hermitage. Book-ending the main hall are a pair of living quarters for the nuns. And to the far left and right, outside the hermitage main courtyard, are the facilities for the nuns like the gardens and the kitchen.

Straight ahead is the main highlight to Baekheungam Hermitage: the Geukrak-jeon Hall. Unfortunately, this hall is off-limits to both visitors and photography except on Buddha’s birthday. I was, however, lucky enough to run into a nun that allowed me entry to this historic building. The Geukrak-jeon Hall is designated Korean Treasure #790. The exterior walls of the building are unpainted. However, once you step inside the main hall, you’ll instantly notice the amazing altar that stands in the middle of the historic hall. Sitting in the centre of the altar is a seated statue of Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise). This statue is then joined on either side by Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) and Daesaeji-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom and Power for Amita-bul). This altar is one of the best examples of Joseon artistry that you’ll find in Korea. The Buddhist altar also just so happens to be Korean Treasure #486. Have a close look at the intricate wood engravings on the five tiers of the altar.

Filling out the rest of the Geukrak-jeon Hall is a haunting Gamno-do (The Sweet Dew Painting) on the far left wall. And this painting is joined on the far right wall by a mural dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife), a guardian mural, as well as a mural dedicated to one of the Ten Kings of the Afterlife.

Depending on when you visit Baekheungam Hermitage, especially during the spring and summer months, the grounds are naturally graced with an assortment of beautiful flowers.

Admittance to Eunhaesa Temple is 3,000 won.

HOW TO GET THERE: You can either catch a bus from Hayang or Yeongcheon bus station. The bus ride will cost you about 2,000 won. It’s probably easier to get to Yeongcheon bus station. The bus to Eunhaesa Temple, from Yeongcheon, leaves 8 times a day and it takes about 45 minutes. The first bus leaves at 6:20 a.m. and the last bus leaves at 8:00 p.m. And from Eunhaesa Temple, you’ll need to continue to walk west of the temple, and along the central road, towards Baekheungam Hermitage. The walk takes about 3.5 km.

OVERALL RATING: 3/10. Baekheungam Hermitage is one of the most difficult hermitages to rate, because it’s so rare that you’ll find a main hall at a temple or hermitage off-limits to the public. With that said, if you’re lucky enough to enter the Geukrak-jeon Hall at Baekheungam Hermitage, the overall rating easily climbs to a six or seven out of ten with its amazing artistry all around the main hall like the main altar and the Gamno-do painting.

Some of the beautiful flowers in and around Baekheungam Hermitage.

A better look at the Boje-ru Pavilion.

The side entry to the hermitage courtyard.

An inside look at the Boje-ru Pavilion that first greeted you at the entry of the hermitage.

The entry to one of the nuns’ quarters at Baekheungam Hermitage.

The exterior of the amazing Geukrak-jeon Hall at Baekheungam Hermitage.

And the view out towards the hermitage courtyard from the Geukrak-jeon Hall.

Unbuam Hermitage – 운부암 (Yeongcheon, Gyeongsangbuk-do)

The Wontong-jeon main hall at Unbuam Hermitage in Yeongcheon, Gyeongsangbuk-do.

Hello Again Everyone!!

Unbuam Hermitage is one of several hermitages directly associated with the famed Eunhaesa Temple. Both Eunhaesa Temple and Unbuam Hermitage are located on the eastern slopes of Mt. Palgongsan (1,192m) in Yeongcheon, Gyeongsangbuk-do.

After arriving at Eunhaesa Temple, make your way past the temple grounds and head northwest. You’ll need to head in this direction for about 3.5 km. The hike is pretty flat the entire way. When you do finally arrive at Unbuam Hermitage, you’ll notice two large artificial ponds out in front of the main hermitage grounds. While the one to the right is rather non-descript, the pond to the left has a towering stone statue of the Bodhidharma standing in the centre of the muddy water.

Between both of the ponds, you’ll find an unpainted Bulimun Gate (The Gate of Non-Duality). Up a set of uneven stone stairs, you’ll see the large Boje-ru Pavilion straight in front of you. This gate shields people from seeing directly into the hermitage courtyard. You’ll need to pass under the Boje-ru Pavilion, and up the set of stairs at its centre to finally gain entry to the main hermitage courtyard.

As you step into Unbuam Hermitage’s courtyard, you’ll find that the main hall is book-ended by two long buildings. The building to the left is the visitors’ centre and kitchen, while the long unpainted building to your right is the monks’ quarters. And standing all alone in the middle of the hermitage courtyard is a diminutive three story stone pagoda.

Past the smaller sized pagoda, you’ll see the rather stout Wontong-jeon main hall at Unbuam Hermitage. The exterior walls to the main hall are adorned with fading murals. If you look closely up at the eaves, you’ll notice some of the fading floral patterns that were once a bit more vibrant. As for the main hall itself, and seated all alone on the main altar in a glass enclosure, is a statue of Gwanseeum-bosal. This highly ornate statue is Korean Treasure #514. If you look closely at this early Joseon Period (1392-1910) masterpiece, you’ll notice the flames, flowers and birds of paradise decorating the crown. This gilt bronze statue stands one metre in height. As for the rest of the main hall, you’ll find a guardian mural and Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife) mural hanging on the far right wall.

To the left rear of the Wontong-jeon main hall, you’ll find a brand new Samseong-gak shaman shrine hall. This hall, which will become apparent soon, is highly original in a few ways. First, there are three rooms housed inside the Samseong-gak. But instead of being divided into rooms dedicated to various shaman deities like at Beomeosa Temple, this shaman shrine hall has rooms to the left and right dedicated to those that want to pray alone.

As for the central room inside the Samseong-gak, you’ll find three paintings housed inside it. Typically, the Chilseong (The Seven Stars) painting hangs in the centre of the triad of shaman paintings. But inside this hall, the Chilseong painting hangs on the left wall, while the Dokseong (The Lonely Saint) painting hangs on the right wall. And taking centre stage inside the Samseong-gak is one of the most original Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) murals I have seen in all of Korea. Sitting front and centre is a seated image of Sanshin. And he’s joined by his companion, a tiger, to the left. But what sets this painting apart are the five painted images of monks in the mural. In the back row appear the images of Uisang-daesa (625-702) to the left and Wonhyo-daesa (617-686) to the right. As for the front row, and in the centre, appears Gyeongheo-seonsa (1849-1912). And he’s joined on either side by Seongcheol-seonsa (1912-1993) and Jinje-seonsa. The only guess that I have as to why they all appear in the Sanshin mural is that all five might have appeared alongside Sanshin to the head monk at Unbuam Hermitage in a dream.

And the reason why I think this might be true is that to the rear of the Wontong-jeon main hall and past the vegetable garden at Unbuam Hermitage, you’ll find what looks to be an abandoned building over a bit of a ridge. Without any sign board indicating what might be housed inside, you’ll have to take a look for yourself. And when you do, you’ll find a beautiful modern painting of yet another Sanshin.

Entrance fee to Eunhaesa Temple, where Unbuam Hermitage is located, is 3,000 won.

HOW TO GET THERE: You can either catch a bus from Hayang or Yeongcheon bus station. The bus ride will cost you about 2,000 won. It’s probably easier to get to Yeongcheon bus station. The bus to Eunhaesa Temple, from Yeongcheon, leaves 8 times a day and it takes about 45 minutes. The first bus leaves at 6:20 a.m. and the last bus leaves at 8:00 p.m. And from Eunhaesa Temple, you’ll need to continue to walk west of the temple, and to the north, towards Unbuam Hermitage. The walk takes about 3.5 km.

OVERALL RATING: 6.5/10. While not as large as the neighbouring Eunhaesa Temple, Unbuam Hermitage is packed with originality. There’s both the Bodhidharma statue, the slender Bulimun Gate, and the Boje-ru Pavilion that first welcome you to the hermitage. But that’s just for starters, because housed inside the main hall is an amazing gilt bronze statue of Gwanseeum-bosal that just so happens to be Korean Treasure #514. And last, but certainly not least, is the highly original Sanshin and monk mural housed inside the Samseong-gak shaman shrine hall.

As you first approach Unbuam Hermitage.

The entry to Unbuam Hermitage with the Bodhidharma off in the distance.

The pond with the Bodhidharma statue in the centre.

The Bulimun Gate that welcomes you to the main hermitage grounds.

A look through the Bulimun Gate towards the Boje-ru Pavilion.

A better look at the all-natural Boje-ru Pavilion.

The view as you first step inside the hermitage courtyard.

A look inside the Boje-ru Pavilion.

The compact entrance to one of the monks’ quarters.

The Bodhidharma guiding you towards the hermitage kitchen.

A look up at the Wontong-jeon Hall at Unbuam Hermitage.

A look through the front door of the Wontong-jeon Hall.

Korean Treasure #514, Gwanseeum-bosal.

The newly built Samseong-gak shaman shrine hall at the hermitage.

One of the prayer rooms inside the Samseong-gak.

The amazing, and highly original, Sanshin mural at Unbuam Hermitage.

Who is joined by Dokseong to the right.

The tile work and fading floral patterns that adorn the Wontong-jeon main hall.

The seemingly abandoned Sanshin-gak to the rear of the hermitage grounds.

Housed inside is this beautiful second Sanshin mural at the hermitage.

One final look from the hermitage courtyard.

Eunhaesa Temple – 은해사 (Yeongcheon, Gyeongsangbuk-do)

Picture 198The elaborately decorated altar inside the main hall at Eunhaesa Temple in Yeongcheon, Gyeongsangbuk-do.

 Hello Again Everyone!!

Eunhaesa  Temple had been a temple that I had long heard of, but had never traveled to. And with an extra day of travel set aside, my wife and I decided to head up to the Daegu area and visit  Eunhaesa  Temple.

Eunhaesa Temple (은해사), which means Temple of the Silver Sea, dates back to 809 when it was first built by the Venerable Monk Hyechul, who was a national teacher at the time. The reason that Eunhaesa Temple has this Silver Sea name is that Buddhas, Bodhisattvas, and Nahan look like a wavy silver sea in all their grandeur at the temple. Also, when it’s foggy at the temple, it looks like a wavy seas is present. Originally, the temple was built in Haeanpeong field along  Mt.  Palsongsan, and it was named  Haeansa  Temple, which means Temple of the  Tranquil  Sea. The temple was moved to its present location in 1546 in the first year of King Myong-Jong, by the Veneral Monk Chongyo. During a commemorative ceremony at the time, King Injong was memorialized with a ceremony that saw a lecture hall and monument built in his memory. Strangely, his umbilical cord was buried under the monument. The temple was further reconstructed in 1589 by the Venerable Monks Bopryong and Kwangshim during King Sunjo’s reign during the Joseon Dynasty. In 1919, the temple was designated as the provincial headquarters for the Gyeongsangbuk-do province for the Jogye Buddhist Order In total, there are 42 temples and 8 hermitages under its control like Geojoam Hermitage and Myobongam Hermitage.

When you approach the temple from the parking lot, you’ll pass under a massive entrance gate. Walking along the trail that leads up the trail, you’ll be greeted by twisted and turned pine trees that eventually bring you to a compound that houses the temple’s stupas. There is an out of place bright green bridge that spans a beautiful stream. Further up the trail, you’ll finally catch your first glimpse of the temple grounds and a neighbouring cascade of water that could do with a bit of cleaning.

You’ll first pass under the large lecture hall that is decorated both inside and outside of the temple grounds with guardian paintings. Strangely, these paintings are neither Heng nor Ha; instead, they seem to appear more like protective Vajra guardians. Stepping into the temple grounds, you’ll be greeted by an expansive courtyard. To your immediate left is the two storied bell pavilion. Immediately in front of the bell pavilion is an intricately designed water fountain and study hall. To the far right, as you step into the temple courtyard, are the monk’s grounds that are off limits to the general public. In this area are numerous dorms and study halls.

Straight ahead is the beautifully designed main hall, both inside and out. The exterior of the main hall is decorated with some fading and chipped away Ox-Herding murals, which are still beautiful in composition. Inside the main hall, you won’t see a better looking and more beautifully decorated main hall in all of Korea. On the altar sits Amita-bul (The Buddha of the  Western Paradise) and two standing Bodhisattvas: Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) to his right, and what looks to be Daesaeji (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom and the Power of Amita-bul). The mural behind the triad dates back to 1750 and is designated a national treasure. There are equally beautiful and older looking murals to the right and left of the main altar. These paintings depict the Yeongsan Assembly and another that depicts the guardians. Up in the rafters of the main hall, there float two birds of paradise. And the main altar canopy is adorned with a uniquely designed dragon.

To the left of the main hall is a shrine hall dedicated to prominent monks that formally resided at the temple. Behind this hall is a compact, but cutely designed, hall dedicated to San shin (The Mountain god). This beautiful shrine hall is equally beautiful inside the hall with a unique bluish gray statue of the Mountain god. To the right of the main hall is the Myeongbu-jeon hall dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). The exterior of the building is adorned with paintings of a baby being reared to old age. The interior of the hall is adorned with a thousand tiny statues of Jijang-bosal. The main altar of the hall is a stately looking Jijang-bosal statue with a beautiful black mural of the Bodhisattva behind him.

Admission to the temple is 3,000 won.

HOW TO GET THERE: You can either catch a bus from Hayang or Yeongcheon bus station. The bus ride will cost you about 1,700 Won. It’s probably easier to get to Yeongcheon bus station. The bus to Eunhaesa Temple, from Yeongcheon, leaves 8 times a day and it takes about 45 minutes. The first bus leaves at 6:20 A.M. and the last bus leaves at 8:00 P.M.

View 은해사 in a larger map

OVERALL RATING: 8/10. The main hall is definitely the highlight of this temple, with its beautiful and ancient mural, the canopy that hovers over top of the triad of Amita-bul and his assisting Bodhisattvas, as well as the numerous murals that are spread throughout the hall. The shrine hall dedicated to San shin is nice, as are the Myeongbu-jeon hall and the hall dedicated to deceased monks. The other aspects of the hall are a little non-descript other than the elaborately designed water fountain next to the bell pavilion.

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The massive entrance gate that welcomes you to the temple.
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The twisted pines that keep you company for most of the walk up to the temple.
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The silver stream that Eunhaesa Temple is named after.
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A look at the stupa compound that houses all the headstones to deceased monks from Eunhaesa Temple.
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The bridge that leads into the temple.
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And the lecture hall that you’ll have to step under to gain access to the temple courtyard.
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The beautiful water fountain with the study hall behind it.
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The tall two storied bell pavilion at the temple.
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A look up at the main hall at the temple with study halls and administrative office on either side of it.
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The newer looking lion-based lantern at Eunhaesa Temple.
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A closer look up at the main hall.
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The shrine hall that is dedicated to prominent monks that resided at Eunhaesa Temple.
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A look inside the shrine hall.
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A look up at the cute and compact San shin hall dedicated to the Mountain god.
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Inside this hall is a bluish gray statue dedicated to San shin.
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One of the beautiful, but fading and chipped, Ox-Herding murals.
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A look inside at the altar inside the main hall with Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise) in the centre with Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) and Daesaeji (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom and Amita-bul’s Power). If you look close enough you can see the dragon ahead adorning the canopy directly above Amita-bul’s head.
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The beautifully red guardian painting to the left of the main altar.
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The older looking, and beautifully detailed, Yeongsan Assembly painting.
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One of the floating birds of paradise that resides in the rafters of the main hall.
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To the back of the main hall, and to the right, is the Myeongbu-jeon hall dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife).
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One of the murals that adorns the exterior of the Myeongbu-jeon hall.
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A look inside the elaborately decorated Myeongbu-jeon hall.
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And a look at the one thousand tiny Jijang-bosal statues on the left wall of the hall.