The wandering valley that leads up to Donghaksa Temple.
Hello Again Everyone!!
It had been a long time since I lasted visited Donghaksa Temple in Gongju, and it’s been just as long since I wanted to visit it again. The only difference this time is that it was raining like crazy and the paved road that leads up to the temple was under construction and had been turned into a mud. All the same, it was quite the temple adventure.
Donghaksa Temple (동학사) is beautifully situated in the east valley of Gyeryongsan Mountain. Legend has it that the temple was first built in 724 by the priest Sangwon Josa. Originally, the temple was called Sangwonsa Temple when the monk Heoeu built the pagoda to preserve the remains of his master Sangwon. However, the temple was burnt down in 1754. Fortunately, the temple was rebuilt sixty years later in 1814 by Geumbongworin hwasang. The temple then underwent further rebuilding and reconstruction in 1864 by Boseon seonsa. Originally this temple was built for monks, now it is used for both a study and teaching centre for Buddhist nuns (biguni). It was the first of such temples in Korea, and in total there are about 150 nuns that study and reside at the temple. When we were there, there were at least ten to fifteen nuns that we saw doing their daily duties of maintaining the temple’s halls and grounds. With this in mind, please be sensitive to the needs of those nuns that make the temple their home.
When you first approach the temple down the heavily constructed main road, you’ll first pass by two hermitages: Mitaam Hermitage and Gilsangam Hermitage. Both are nicely maintained and worth a look if you have the time. Continuing up the trail, and next to the beautiful stream that wanders beside you, you’ll first arrive at a memorial shrine compound that houses three halls. The most prominent of these halls is Sungmo-jeon, which is a hall that was first built in 1456 by the Joseon Dynasty scholar, Kim Shi Seup. He and several other officials refused to shift their loyalty from the deposed boy king, Danjong, who had been usurped by his uncle, King Sejo. Six individuals were killed for attempting to restore Danjong to the throne. This shrine has been destroyed and rebuilt several times. The other two shrine halls that exist at this compound are Donggyesa and Sameungak. Donggyesa hall contains the memorial tablet dedicated to Bak Jae Sang who died under the Japanese. This hall was built in 1956. Finally, Sameungak hall is dedicated to the wisest scholars in the country in the 14th century: Jeong Mong Ju, Yi Mokeun Saek, and Gil Yaeun Gae. The hall was first built in 1394.
Continuing up the trail, after a one kilometre walk, you’ll finally come to Donghaksa Temple. The temple and temple grounds are well maintained and beautifully kept. Straight ahead is the main hall. The main hall is beautifully decorated both inside and out. On the outside of the main hall are the Palsang-do paintings depicting the Historical Buddha’s (Seokgamoni-bul) life. These paintings are beautifully rendered, and it’s the first time that I’ve seen these paintings accompanied by an English explanation to all eight paintings. The highlight of this temple are the gorgeously designed front doors to the main hall. Inside the main hall there is a beautiful triad of Buddhas on the altar with a guardian painting to the right. From the main hall you can get a great view of Munpilbong Peak, which was ghostly in the falling rain. The most impressive hall at the temple is the Samseong-gak hall dedicated to the three Shaman deities. All three, Chilseong(The Seven Stars), Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit), and Dokseong (The Lonely Saint), are beautifully depicted. There is, however, a fourth addition to the hall, which I’ve never seen at any other temple in Korea. On the left wall, with the crystal lotus flowers, is a painting of Yongwang (The Dragon King). The inside of the hall is also illustrated with various murals that are older looking. There are especially beautiful paintings of phoenixes up on the ceiling that are a bit faded. Next to this hall are extensive halls for the housing and education of all the nuns at the temple. To the right of the main hall is the kitchen area of the temple. In the courtyard is an older looking pagoda from the Silla Period with a newly constructed base. This pagoda dates back to 723 A.D. Also, there is a garden with various flowers including pots for water lilies. While this temple is smaller in size, it has a refined feminine touch that makes it different than a lot of the temples throughout the rest of Korea.
Admission to the temple is 2,000 won.
For more information on Donghaksa Temple.
HOW TO GET THERE: The easiest way to get to Donghaksa Temple is to take a bus from Daejeon. You can either take express city bus number 12 from the express bus terminal or Daejeon Station. These buses go through Yuseong city before reaching the park entrance below Donghaksa Temple. You can also take Bus 107 from the Hyeongchungwon Station (Daejeon Subway Line 1, exit 3) if you live in Daejeon.
View 동학사 in a larger map
OVERALL RATING: 8.5/10. Donghaksa Temple makes for a nice little adventure away from the city life. It definitely has the refined touch of a nunnery to it. Look for the stunningly decorative front doors to the main hall with their various tree designs. Also, the Samseong-gak hall for the Shaman gods is another beautiful aspect to the temple with the beautifully rendered gods and the rare presence of Yongwang, the King of the Sea, amongst the fading phoenixes and crystal lotus flowers. Finally, as you walk up the beautiful valley with the wandering stream, you’ll come across the unique Sungmo-jeon hall that is dedicated to the loyalist of the deposed child-king, Danjong, who were unwilling to shift their loyalty to the usurping king, Sejong. With so many other beautiful temples in the area, including Donghaksa Temple, these temples can make for quite a nice little get away.