Muryangsa Temple – 무량사 (Yangsan, Gyeongsangnam-do)

The beautiful Gwanseeum-bosal statue at Muryangsa Temple in Yangsan, Gyeongsangnam-do.

Hello Again Everyone!!

Muryangsa Temple is located in the Hwaje valley in Yangsan, Gyeongsangnam-do. And framing the valley, as well as the temple, is the beautiful Mt. Togoksan (855m) off to the east.

You first approach Muryangsa Temple, not to be confused with the more famous one in Buyeo, Chungcheongnam-do, up several rural roads; until finally, you’ll notice the colourful parking garage that fronts the temple grounds to the right.

To the right of the parking garage at Muryangsa Temple is the temple’s Iljumun Gate. This simplistic gate is vibrantly painted in the traditional dancheong colours. Up a set of uneven stone stairs, you’ll enter the compact temple courtyard. Hanging over the archway, as you place your feet on the grass in the courtyard, is a metal manja (swastika). To the right of the two storied main hall are a collection of stone statues. The jovial character to the far right is Podae-hwasang. And he’s joined to the left by three stone statues embodying the idea of “See no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil.”

These four stone statues are backed by the temple’s main hall. On the first floor is the temple’s visitors’ centre and kitchen. And on the second floor is the actual main hall. The stairs that lead up to the second floor are to the left. And other than the traditional dancheong colours, the exterior walls to Muryangsa Temple’s main hall are unadorned. Stepping inside the main hall, you’ll notice a triad of statues seated on the main altar. In the centre sits Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise). Strangely enough, this statue almost appears to be giving you the middle finger with his left hand. It’s common to see Amita-bul strike a mudra (a ritual hand gesture), but it’s a bit more uncommon to see his finger elevated in such a manner. Joining this statue on either side is Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife) and Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). And hanging on the far right wall is a large Shinjung Taenghwa (guardian mural).

To the left of the main hall is a shrine with a beautiful, large stone statue dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal. And to the left of this statue, and up a pathway, is the temple’s Samseong-gak shaman shrine hall. Like the main hall, the shrine hall is only adorned with dancheong traditional colours along its exterior walls. As for inside the Samseong-gak, you’ll find traditional Chilseong (The Seven Stars) and Dokseong (The Lonely Saint) murals. In addition, you’ll find a uniquely all-white robed Sanshin (Mountain Spirit) inside the Samseong-gak, as well.

HOW TO GET THERE: There’s really only one way to get to Muryangsa Temple in Yangsan, Gyeongsangnam-do, and that’s by taxi. From the Jeungsan subway station on line #2, stop #240, get a taxi from out in front of the subway station to get to the temple. The ride should take about 25 minutes and cost 14,000 won (one way).

OVERALL RATING: 4/10. This temple is a little hard to rate. While newer in construction, it has beautiful features throughout like the shaman murals and the vibrant dancheong colours on all of the temple buildings at Muryangsa Temple. However, with that being said, the temple is quite small in size, but makes up for some of these short-comings with beautiful stone statues like Podae-hwasang and Gwanseeum-bosal. It’s also a bit out of the way to see. But overall, I was pleasantly surprised with Muryangsa Temple.

The Iljumun Gate at Muryangsa Temple.

A look through the entry gate up at the main hall.

The view from the temple courtyard with the manja overhead.

The two story main hall at Muyrangsa Temple.

The three statues that represent “See no evil, speak no evil, hear no evil” out in front of the main hall.

And the three are joined by this jovial statue dedicated to Podae-hwasang.

The main altar inside the main hall.

The guardian mural to the right of the main altar.

And this little cutie followed me around most of the temple grounds.

The view to the south from the main hall at Muryangsa Temple.

This beautiful shrine dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal stands to the left of the main hall.

The freshly painted and built Samseong-gak shaman shrine hall.

The statue and mural dedicated to The Lonely Saint.

And to the right of Dokseong rest murals and statues dedicated to Chilseong and Sanshin.

The amazing view to the east of the temple grounds towards Mt. Togoksan.

Colonial Korea: Muryangsa Temple – 무량사 (Buyeo, Chungcheongnam-do)

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Flag pole supports in 1916 at Muryangsa Temple in Buyeo, Chungcheongnam-do.

Hello Again Everyone!!

On the far western side of the Buyeo, Chungcheongnam-do city limits is Muryangsa Temple. Scenically situated in a long valley at the base of Mt. Mansusan, Muryangsa Temple has a long history that stretches back to the 9th century.

Muryangsa Temple was first built during the reign of King Munseong (r. 839-856) by the National Preceptor, Beomil. Later, and during the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392), the temple was later repaired. And in 1592, during the Imjin War (1592-98), Muryangsa Temple was destroyed by the invading Japanese. A half century later, and during the reign of King Injo (r. 1623-49), the temple was rebuilt by the monk Jinmuk.

In total, the temple houses five Korean Treasures, which notably includes Treasure #356, the Geukrak-jeon Hall at Muryangsa Temple, as well as Treasure #185, the Five Story Stone Pagoda of Muryangsa Temple. The temple was also the last home to the Joseon Korean scholar and author, Kim Siseup.

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The five tier pagoda in 1916 that also just so happens to be Treasure #185.

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The stone lantern at Muryangsa Temple from 1916. It’s also Treasure #233.

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The Geukrak-jeon Hall in 1933. The main hall is also Treasure #356.

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The exterior to the main hall  from 1933.

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A look inside the main hall from 1933. The triad inside this hall is Treasure #1565.

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The Geukrak-jeon main hall with the five tier pagoda and stone lantern from 2015.

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A closer look at the main all, which also just so happens to be Treasure #356.

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The large triad on the main altar inside the Geukrak-jeon Hall. This triad is Treasure #1565.

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One more look at Korean Treasure #356.

Muryangsa Temple – 무량사 (Buyeo, Chungcheongnam-do)

DSC_2182-1024x678 A look through the Cheonwangmun Gate at Muryangsa Temple in Buyeo, Chungcheongnam-do.

Hello Again Everyone!!

Located at the foot of Mt. Mansusan, Muryangsa Temple was first built during the reign of King Munseong (r. 839-857). It was built by National Preceptor Beomil, and it was later repaired during the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392). Like so many temples throughout the Korean peninsula, Muryangsa Temple was completely destroyed by the invading Japanese during the Imjin War in 1592. Later, it was rebuilt by the monk Jinmuk during the reign of King Injo (r. 1623-1649). In total, the temple houses five Korean designated Treasures. It was also the last home to Joseon Korean scholar and author Kim Siseup.

You first approach the temple past the aged Iljumun Gate at the entry and across the Mansu-cheon Stream. It’s looking through the boxy Cheonwangmun Gate with its mutant looking Four Heavenly Kings that you get a great view of the historic Geukrak-jeon and the treasured five-tier pagoda at Muryangsa Temple.

Beautifully framed by a low-lying tree and the surrounding mountains, the five-tier pagoda is believed to have been built sometime between the Baekje Dynasty (18 B.C to 660 A.D.) and the Unified Silla Dynasty (668 A.D to 935 A.D). But it’s the two story Geukrak-jeon main hall at Muryangsa Temple that truly stands out. Treasure #356 dates back to the mid-Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910) and houses the three largest seated statues in all of Asia. The triad is centred by Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise), and he’s joined on either side by Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) and Daesaeji-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom and Power for Amita-bul).

To the right of these structures lies the temple’s bell pavilion and Myeongbu-jeon Hall. Inside the bell pavilion is stored the Muryangsa Temple bell that dates back to 1636. As for the Myeongbu-jeon Hall, there’s a slender statue of Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife) that’s surrounded by ten equally slender seated statues of the Ten Kings of the Underworld.

To the left of the Geukrak-jeon main hall are a collection of shrine halls. The first of these halls underneath another mature tree at the temple is the Cheonbul-jeon Hall with a thousand tiny white Buddha statues inside. These statues are joined by a statue of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha) on the main altar. To the front right of this hall is the Yeongjeong-gak with a mural of the famed patriot, Kim Siseup, inside. And the final hall in the collection is the Wontong-jeon with a multi-armed statue of Gwanseeum-bosal inside. He’s joined by hundreds of wooden statues of various Buddhas and Bodhisattvas.

Just a little further up the path, and just before taking a trail that leads you to the top of the neighbouring Mt. Mansusan, is the temple’s Samseong-gak. To the left of the head monks living quarters is the unassuming shaman shrine hall. The frowning/contemplative look of Dokseong (The Lonely Saint), as well as the tiger-riding Sanshin (Mountain Spirit) are something to keep an eye out for when visiting the Samseong-gak.

Admission to the temple is 2,000 won.

HOW TO GET THERE: From the Nambu Terminal in Seoul, you should take an express bus to the Buyeo Intercity Bus Terminal. From this terminal, head left out the exit and continue to walk towards the big street. After crossing the road, take Bus #127 from the Buyeo Market Bus Stop. Then, at the Muryang Village Bus Stop, which is 37 stops away, get off and walk about 400 metres towards Muryangsa Temple.

OVERALL RATING: 7/10. With a number of Korean Treasures, it’s the much vaunted Geukrak-jeon Hall that stands out the most at this serenely located Muryangsa Temple in Buyeo, Chungcheongnam-do. Other highlights to your visit will include the shrine hall dedicated to Kim Siseup, as well as the massive statues housed inside the Geukrak-jeon.

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The Iljumun Gate at Muryangsa Temple.

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The Mansucheon Stream at the temple.

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The path that makes its way up to Muryangsa Temple.

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The mutant-looking Heavenly Kings inside the Cheonwangmun Gate.

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A look towards the treasured five-tier pagoda and Geukrak-jeon.

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A different angle with the 19th century Myeongbu-jeon in view to the right.

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The 1636 bell at Muryangsa Temple.

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The slender Jijang-bosal statue inside the Myeongbu-jeon Hall.

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A look at the two-story Geukrak-jeon at Muryangsa Temple.

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The largest seated statues in Asia inside the Geukrak-jeon.

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A look towards the Cheonbul-jeon.

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A look towards the Yeongjeong-gak.

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With a framed picture of Kim Siseup inside the Yeongjeong-gak.

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 The Wontong-jeon with Gwanseeum-bosal front and centre.

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Some of the surrounding wooden statues of various Buddhas and Bodhisattvas.

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The Samseong-gak shaman shrine hall.

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Awaiting you is the tiger-riding Sanshin painting.

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 One last look at two Korean Treasures.