Bodhisattva on the Rock Face in Sinseonam on top of Chilbulam Hermitage in Gyeongju.
Hello Again Everyone!!
I had wanted to visit Chilbulam Hermitage for years. I had been waiting on my wife, in-laws, and I to go, but I had grown far too impatient to wait until the warmer weather. So just a little while back, I decided to head out on my own and discover both the natural and artistic beauty that can be found at Chilbulam Hermitage on Mt. Namsan in historic Gyeongju.
The present incarnation of Chilbulam Hermitage, or “Seven Buddhas Hermitage”, in English, dates back a mere hundred years when a nun was hunting for mushrooms in the area. It was by mere chance that she stumbled upon the pair of statues that make up the seven Buddhas statue buried in the ground. Upon discovering the statues, she built a hut on the grounds to continue her hunt for mushrooms. And in 2009, the present main hall and dorm building was built.
Chilbulam Hermitage is located on top of the Bonghwa Valley. To get to the hermitage, you’ll have to walk two kilometres up the valley. At times, the trail can be quite easy, as you walk beside a rolling stream. However, the final 500 metres of the trail can be a bit tough. As you near the hermitage, you’ll pass through a bamboo forest, as you make your way up to the temple grounds.
When you first appear in the temple courtyard, you’ll notice the newly built main hall/nuns’ dorms to your immediate left. This rather plainly painted main hall is joined to the left by the Samseong-gak shaman shrine hall. Inside are three beautiful, but rather customary, paintings of the three shaman deities. The one exception is the seated image of Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit).
As there are only a couple temple buildings at the hermitage, it won’t take you long to get back to the Seven Buddhas on a Rock Face sculpture that dominates the hermitage’s courtyard. The Seven Buddhas on a Rock Face sculpture dates back to between the 7th and 8th century. This sculpture, in Korean, is referred to as the “Chilbul Maae Seokbul.” In total, there are seven images that appear over two separate stones. Four appear on the smaller rock that’s placed in front of a much larger stone. On the larger stone, there appear three Buddha and Bodhisattva images. The tallest image on the larger stone is 2.7 metres in height. This large image appears to be Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise), while the image to the right appears to be Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) because of the bottle of sweet dew that it holds in her hand. The final image in this triad, then, would be Daesaeji-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom and Power for Amita-bul). On the smaller, squarish stone, are four images. Two of the four are identifiable because of the direction they face, while the other two are left up to guess work. The image facing the east would be Yaksayore-bul (The Medicine Buddha, as well as the Buddha of the Eastern Paradise). And again, the Buddha facing the west is Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise).
To the right of the large Seven Buddhas sculpture is a trail that leads to the top of the mountain. Up this trail is the amazing Bodhisattva on the Rock Face in Sinseonam. The path up from Chilbulam Hermitage to the sculpture is, perhaps, the most treacherous I’ve been on. So make sure you have your hiking boots with you and you cautiously climb the thirty metre long trail. When you do eventually get to the top of the mountain, and you turn the extremely narrow bend in the trail, you’ll surprisingly be greeted by an image of Gwanseeum-bosal on a narrow ledge. This sculpture stands 1.4 metres in height and it dates back to the late 8th century. Physically, the Bodhisattva has flowers in her right hand and her left hand is raised. Additionally, Gwanseeum-bosal wears a large crown and a robe that loosely flows from her body. Gwanseeum-bosal is seated on a pedestal with the left foot tucked up under her, while the right is firmly planted on the ground. And the pedestal is situated on top of a cloud as Gwanseeum-bosal’s eyes are meditatively held partially open. This sculpture is, perhaps, one of the most uniquely and beautifully placed in all of Korea. It’s really hard to think of one that really surpasses it.
Admission to this temple is free. Also, you’re allowed staying at the hermitage for a small fee. Just make sure that you call ahead before staying the night at the hermitage.
HOW TO GET THERE: The easiest way, by public transportation, to get to Chilbulam Hermitage is by taking city bus #10 or #11 from the Gyeongju Intercity Bus Terminal. However, one bus should only take you about 15 minutes, while the other bus takes 45 minutes. Ask at the tourism kiosk next to the Gyeongju Intercity Bus Terminal which one is faster. You’ll have to get off at the Tongiljeon (통일전) stop. From this stop, you’ll have to cross the parking lot to the snack shop and Seolchuji Pond. From there, you’ll have to walk the rest of the way. There are plenty of signs that will lead you the rest of the way.
The easiest way, however, is simply by taking a taxi from the Intercity Bus Terminal. If there are a group of you, the 10,000 won fare will be almost equal to the bus fare, anyways. Simply tell the bus driver, “Namsan Chilbulam,” and they should be able to do the rest.
View Chilbulam Hermitage in a larger map
OVERALL RATING: 9/10. Chilbulam Hermitage is beautifully situated on the side of Mt. Namsan and up Bonghwa Valley. Mixed in with the natural beauty that oozes from this part of the mountain is the artistic beauty found at this hermitage in both the Seven Buddhas sculpture in the temple courtyard and the Bodhisattva on the Rock Face in Sinseonam. Both the natural and Silla artistry are really second to none, not only in Gyeongju, but throughout the Korea peninsula.